The art of lapidary—gem cutting and polishing—is a craft that has evolved over centuries and continues to advance. Early techniques were often labor-intensive, relying on rudimentary tools to shape and polish stones, while modern advancements have introduced precision machinery and laser technology to refine every facet. Despite these innovations, the essence of the craft remains the same: transforming nature's raw treasures into exquisite gems.
In their rough state, most gemstones conceal their delicate beauty, making the cutting process essential to reveal nature’s brilliance to the human eye. This intricate process involves cutting, grinding, and polishing the stone to achieve either a faceted or non-faceted finish. The choice depends on the unique characteristics and features of the gemstone, alongside other considerations.
During cutting, significant portions of the rough stone are often lost, which is why gem cutters typically select shapes and cuts that maximize the gemstone’s final carat weight. However, additional factors—such as inclusions, visual qualities, and the cutter’s skill—also play a pivotal role in the decision-making process.
The terms "cut" and "shape" are often used interchangeably, even within the trade, leading to some confusion. However, there is a distinct difference between the two. The shape of a gemstone refers to its outline when viewed from above, whereas the cut describes how the stone’s facets are arranged.
Facets can be designed to maximize brilliance and fire, highlight the gemstone’s internal world, or draw attention to unique surface patterns. While some cuts are best suited to specific shapes, most gemstone shapes can accommodate a variety of cuts, allowing for endless creativity and expression.
The round brilliant cut with 57 facets, or 58 if the culet is faceted, is considered to be ideal for capturing the light within the gemstone and returning it perfectly into the eyes of the beholder. Famously often used in diamonds, this cut was developed early in the 20th century and has enchanted generations of gemstone enthusiasts and proud owners alike.
Also known as the tapered step-cut, this cut was named after the emerald because it fits the gem's natural crystal shape best and often results in a higher weight retention and a better perception of the stone's inner beauty. Nevertheless, other gemstones, especially within the beryl family, benefit from this cut. The shape of the emerald cut is rectangular and incorporates tapered corners. This timeless cut is often prominently featured in center stones of classic jewellery designs.
In the mid-20th century, Lazare Kaplan improved the cut for oval-shaped gemstones to resemble the round brilliant cut. Since many gemstones are loosely spherical in their rough state, this elegant shape adds the advantage of retaining a larger portion of the gemstone’s original weight. If brilliant-cut, its facets lead to a brilliant shine that has been recognized and appreciated even by royalty.
The radiant cut, introduced in the 1970s, is a captivating hybrid of the brilliant and step cuts. First developed by master diamond cutter Henry Grossbard, the radiant cut was designed to combine the sparkle of a round brilliant with the linear elegance of an emerald cut. Its signature cropped corners and intricate faceting pattern create unparalleled brilliance and fire, making it a trailblazer in modern diamond design.
Contrary to popular belief, the cushion-shaped gemstone is not a modern invention. Based on the old mine cut, it was one of the most beloved shapes during the 19th century and has experienced a revival in recent decades. Its larger facets emphasize the gemstone’s inner beauty, creating a soft, romantic glow that balances vintage charm with contemporary elegance.
The pear, or teardrop shape, owes its popularity to its graceful and versatile silhouette. Combining the round shape’s softness with the pointed elegance of a marquise, the pear shape is perfect for pendants and rings alike. If brilliant-cut, the pear shape exhibits exceptional brilliance and sparkle, making it a timeless favorite for those seeking a distinctive and romantic design.
The marquise shape is thought to have originated in the court of King Louis XV, the marquise cut was inspired by the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Its pointed oval silhouette is often brilliant-cut, allowing it to capture and reflect light with exceptional brilliance. This shape is not only visually striking but also has the effect of elongating the appearance of the finger, making it a popular choice for engagement rings.
This cut was invented in the early 20th century by the Asscher Brothers in the Netherlands. Sharing some similarities with the classic emerald cut, it was developed to increase the gemstone’s brilliance. The shape of the gemstone is square or rectangular with cropped corners. An Asscher cut is best identified by squares in a concentric array that seem to draw the observer's eye deep into the precious stone’s center.
The old mine cut is a precursor to today’s modern brilliant cut and was most popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Recognizable by its slightly square or cushion-like shape with softly rounded edges, the old mine cut features a high crown, a small table, and a large open culet. These diamonds were often cut by hand, and their unique faceting style prioritizes depth and character over symmetry, giving them a romantic, antique charm. Known for their warm glow and subdued sparkle, old mine cut diamonds evoke a sense of history and timeless beauty.
The hexagon cut is a striking choice with roots in both ancient symbolism and contemporary design. The six-sided geometric shape has long been associated with harmony and balance, while its angular lines lend a bold, modern edge. Emerging in popularity in recent years, the hexagon cut showcases clean lines and sharp facets that maximize a gemstone’s natural clarity and depth. Whether step-cut or faceted to enhance brilliance, this shape is often used in unique jewellery creations that embrace individuality and timeless geometry.
With its elongated eight-sided shape and crisp, step-cut facets, the long octagon cut offers a modern yet timeless profile. Clean lines and symmetrical geometry make it a favourite for those seeking elegance with structure. Often used in contemporary designs, this cut showcases exceptional clarity and delivers a soft, reflective glow rather than overt brilliance. Its architectural form makes it an ideal choice for those drawn to linear beauty and understated sophistication.
A relatively recent development, the princess cut was created to answer a specific challenge of jewellery making. While the more classic cuts for rectangular gemstones, like the emerald cut, strongly emphasize the color and inner world of a stone, the princess cut, like the brilliant cut in round gemstones, was created to perfectly capture and reflect the light to achieve supreme brilliance. The princess cut is characterized by its profile, which has similarities to an inverted pyramid.
The trilliant cut was first introduced as a diamond cut in the early 20th century. It was a successful attempt to modify the classic brilliant cut and adapt it to triangular-shaped gemstones. Because of this relationship with the brilliant cut, trilliants (or triangular modified brilliant cut gemstones) usually exhibit an impressive amount of fire. Today, the terms trilliant and trillion generally refer to gemstones in triangular shapes, regardless of their faceting. They come with straight sides, like the original trilliant diamond cut, as well as curved ones, which are often seen in colored gemstones today.
The baguette, named after the French word for stick, has a modern flair with its thin and elongated shape. A baguette-shaped gemstone is often step-cut, meaning the facets run parallel along the stone rather than being arranged to maximize brilliance. This shape particularly appeals to gemstones whose crystal structure is naturally oblong, allowing for a mesmerizing perception of the stone’s depth and clarity. Baguettes are frequently used as accent stones in jewellery to complement larger centerpieces.
The rose cut, dating back to the 16th century, is one of the oldest diamond cutting styles, steeped in history and romance. Named for its resemblance to the unfolding petals of a rosebud, this cut features a flat base and a domed top adorned with triangular facets. Unlike modern brilliant cuts, the rose cut lacks a pavilion, giving it a soft, subdued sparkle that emphasizes the diamond's natural beauty rather than dazzling brilliance. Often found in antique and vintage jewellery, rose cut diamonds exude a sense of understated elegance and old-world charm.
The oval rose cut is a variation of the traditional rose cut, adapted to the elegant proportions of an oval shape. With its flat base and gently domed top covered in triangular facets, this cut offers a soft, luminous glow rather than intense sparkle. The elongated silhouette lends itself beautifully to vintage-inspired settings, evoking a sense of quiet sophistication. Favoured for its romantic appearance and antique feel, the oval rose cut is often chosen for bespoke or alternative engagement rings, appealing to those who appreciate subtlety, history, and old-world charm.
Merging geometric intrigue with vintage elegance, the hexagon rose cut is a rare and eye-catching choice. This cut retains the rose cut’s signature flat base and faceted dome, but with a six-sided outline that lends architectural precision to the stone. Its surface facets shimmer gently, highlighting the natural inclusions and character of the gemstone. Often seen in custom or artisanal jewellery, the hexagon rose cut appeals to those who value individuality and subtle brilliance. With its combination of structure and softness, it’s a cut that balances the past and present in equal measure.
The kite cut is a bold and contemporary shape that has found a loyal following in modern jewellery design. With its angular silhouette resembling a traditional kite, this cut features four pointed corners and sharp, linear facets that draw the eye inward. Originally used as accent stones in geometric settings, kite cuts have recently become popular as striking centrepieces in engagement rings and custom designs. Their unconventional form allows for creative setting styles and offers a unique alternative to traditional cuts. Whether used in diamonds or coloured gemstones, the kite cut embodies an edgy elegance that appeals to those with a taste for the unexpected.
The tapered baguette cut is a refined variation of the classic baguette, distinguished by its trapezoidal shape that narrows at one end. Step-cut to enhance clarity and symmetry, the tapered baguette is most often used as a side stone, where its sleek angles gracefully complement a central gemstone. Its subtle taper not only adds a sense of flow and balance to the overall design but also draws the eye toward the centrepiece. With its streamlined elegance and geometric precision, the tapered baguette remains a staple in both vintage-inspired and contemporary settings, valued for its understated sophistication and design versatility.
The half moon cut is a distinctive and graceful shape that resembles a crescent or a bisected oval. Typically used as a side stone, its curved edge gently hugs the contour of a central gemstone, adding softness and symmetry to the overall design. The flat edge allows it to sit flush against other stones, making it ideal for three-stone settings or more intricate arrangements. Though often step-cut to showcase clarity and structure, half moon stones can also be faceted for added brilliance. With its elegant silhouette and versatile appeal, the half moon cut is a favourite for those seeking harmony, fluidity, and a touch of celestial charm in their jewellery.
As the ultimate symbol of love, the heart-shaped gemstone naturally represents the deep bond between two people. Precision is crucial in crafting this shape, as perfect symmetry between the two halves is essential for its visual appeal. Most often faceted to enhance brilliance, the heart shape is a cherished choice for sentimental gifts and jewellery pieces designed to celebrate love.
The old European cut emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries as an evolution of the old mine cut. With its round shape, larger table, and smaller culet, this cut is considered the predecessor of the modern round brilliant. Old European cut diamonds are characterized by their deep proportions and chunky facets, which create a soft, vintage brilliance. Often associated with the Art Deco and Edwardian periods, these diamonds carry a nostalgic elegance that appeals to lovers of heirloom jewellery and antique designs.
A cut that dates back to ancient times, the cabochon cut is used in gemstones with strong visual allure on the surface. Usually in oval shapes, cabochons are neither faceted nor technically cut, but shaped and polished into domes that present the intricate structures of gemstones like opals or moonstones. They are mostly chosen to accentuate special optical phenomena such as the cat’s eye or the star effect in certain stones.
We are highly selective about the diamonds & coloured gemstones we offer in our Gem Vault. Every stone is carefully selected by our founder—a certified gemmologist with the International Gem Society (IGS) and an accredited diamond grader with the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA). Each and every stone is assessed with precision and care, upholding our strict standards of quality, traceability, and ethical sourcing. Explore the Gem Vault to discover our curated collection of loose diamonds and coloured gemstones, or contact us to source something specific for your design.
