Diamond Cut Guide

Understanding how diamond cut impacts beauty and value is essential for selecting the perfect stone. This guide explores the crucial factors that determine a diamond's sparkle, from proportions to grading standards.

What is Diamond Cut & Why is it Important?

Diamond cut, one of the 4 C's, refers to how skillfully a diamond's facets interact with light. Often mistaken for shape (the diamond's outline), cut determines the diamond's ability to reflect and refract light, creating its brilliance. A well-executed cut aligns proportions, symmetry, and polish to maximise light return.

The cut of a diamond directly influences its sparkle and overall appearance. A well-cut diamond captivates with unmatched brilliance, fire, and scintillation, while a poorly cut diamond can appear dull or lifeless. An excellent cut enhances a diamond's inherent beauty, making it a key factor in evaluating quality.

Bright diamond side view

How is Diamond Cut Graded?

Diamond grading reports, such as those from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), assess cut quality on a scale from Excellent to Poor for round brilliant diamonds. These grades consider factors like proportions, polish, and symmetry. However, it is essential to note that polish and symmetry grades do not fully encapsulate overall cut performance, as brilliance and light return depend on precise alignment of facets beyond the report.

Diamond grading report

Diamond Anatomy

To better understand the cut grade of a diamond, it is important to familiarise yourself with the following characteristics that, when assessed together, establish a superior cut quality:

  • Table Size: The flat top of the diamond, where light enters and exits. Ideally, the table should measure 52% to 62% of the diamond’s diameter.
  • Star Length: Triangular facets extending from the edge of the table. These impact how light is dispersed across the crown.
  • Crown Height & Angle: The crown, above the girdle, influences fire and colour dispersion. Well-balanced crown angles enhance brilliance and fire.
Diamond anatomy diagram

Diamond Anatomy Continued

  • Girdle & Thickness: The girdle is the thin edge separating the crown and pavilion. A balanced girdle ensures durability without adding unnecessary weight.
  • Lower Girdle Facets: These extend from the girdle towards the culet and affect scintillation and reflection sharpness.
  • Pavilion Depth & Angle: The pavilion determines light reflection. Ideal angles ensure brilliance without light leakage.
  • Culet: A small facet or point at the bottom. A small or absent culet prevents dark spots.
  • Total Depth: Overall diamond height. Proper depth balances brilliance with face-up size.
Side profile of emerald cut diamond

Other Cut Characteristics

In addition to the primary facets and measurements, several other features play a vital role in defining a diamond's overall quality and visual appeal.

  • Spread: Refers to how large a diamond appears relative to its weight. Fancy cuts may favour weight retention over beauty.
  • Polish: The condition of the diamond's surface. Graded Excellent to Poor; visible differences appear only under magnification.
  • Symmetry: Measures how precisely facets are aligned. Subtle variations affect light performance and appearance.
Mix of blue diamonds

Other Cut Characteristics Continued

  • Brilliance: The reflection of white light both internally and externally. Enhanced by optimal facet placement.
  • Fire: Dispersion of light into rainbow colours. Crown angles influence fire intensity.
  • Scintillation: Sparkles seen when the diamond moves. Smaller facets create tiny sparkles; larger ones produce broad flashes.
  • Proportions: Angles and dimensions affecting light return. Two diamonds may share a cut grade but differ in performance.
Loose blue diamonds

Cut Grades

Understanding cut grades is essential for selecting a diamond that balances beauty and value. Each grade reflects a diamond's ability to interact with light, influencing its brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

  • Excellent/Ideal: Precision-crafted with top proportions and polish. Maximum sparkle.
  • Very Good: Slightly less precise but still impressive brilliance.
  • Good: Noticeable compromises in proportions, less sparkle.
  • Fair: Suboptimal performance, reduced light return.
  • Poor: Low brilliance and poor visual appeal due to major flaws.
GIA cut grade scale

Fancy Cut Diamonds

Fancy shapes, such as oval, marquise, pear, and cushion cuts, fall outside the GIA’s standardised cut grading system and thus are not given a cut grade. These shapes often prioritise weight retention over light performance, making it important to work with an experienced diamond buyer.

Fancy cut blue diamonds

Different Types of Diamond Cuts

Want to explore more? Read more in our gemstone shape guide to discover how different cuts affect both appearance and performance.

Jasmine Ring diamond cut

We are highly selective about the diamonds & coloured gemstones we offer in our Gem Vault. Every stone is carefully selected by our founder—a certified gemmologist with the International Gem Society (IGS) and an accredited diamond grader with the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA). Each and every stone is assessed with precision and care, upholding our strict standards of quality, traceability, and ethical sourcing.

Explore the Gem Vault to discover our curated collection of loose diamonds and coloured gemstones, or contact us to source something specific for your design.

Explore the Gem Vault Contact Us